Lost in transit

New dimensions

It's a strange feeling when you have lived in a country for 15 years and think that you've pretty much figured it all out and then you suddenly realize one day that there is a whole world out there that has passed you by completely for all those years.

We bought a couple of pretty good bicycles a few months back and have joined up with a couple of friends riding in the beautiful hills surrounding Taipei, which must be about as ugly as a big city can be. Lots of traffic, more pollution and even uglier square concrete blocks for houses, often covered in those small ugly tiles that makes them look like they are bathrooms turned inside out with the toilet converted to the tail end of the elevator shaft that always sticks out on top of the buildings.

It then becomes a true revelation when you understand that an hour on the bicycle will bring you up on a mountain with almost untouched forest, beautiful views, no cars, buses or scooters, clear, fresh air, birds, cicadas and the sound of mountain streams and rivers. And some pretty heavy breathing, of course.

A couple weeks ago, we took our bikes apart, bagged them and took the train down to the southeast of Taiwan for a three-day ride from the Pacific to the Taiwan Straits and crossing over the island's central mountain range at elevations of almost 3,000m.

The stunning views became more spectacular as we climbed. At times it felt like being on Huang Shan in China again or entering a Chinese landscape painting with trees or pavilions perched on high cliffs enveloped in clouds, and sometimes I almost reached that euphoric state that you can get to when you're sailing and everything runs like clockwork and you don't have to speak and you hear nothing but the sound of the wind and the boat cutting through the seas. Supreme.

It didn't even matter that it rained for two of the three days. This really is the Ihla Formosa, incredibly beautiful so long as you make the effort to get out of the city. It really was a supreme experience, and we're already planning for the next trip of two or three days. Or four.

So after almost 15 years in Taiwan, I am surprised to have discovered a whole new dimension to living here. Don't become too complacent and think you know it all. You never do.

(Here is the write up of the whole tour if someone's interested)

Posted by Perry at December 2, 2007 01:35 PM